Interview: Sabyasachi Opens in New York City

In the summer of 1999, a young Bengali student named Sabyasachi Mukherjee graduated from the National Institute of Fashion Technology India and four months later founded his eponymous brand. Since,…

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The acclaimed designer on how he continues to share Indian culture and couture through his own lens In the summer of 1999, a young Bengali student named Sabyasachi Mukherjee graduated from the National Institute of Fashion Technology India and four months later founded his eponymous brand. Since, he has come to dress not just some of the biggest actors in Bollywood (an industry that eclipses the American movie industry in revenue) but expand his reach across the globe with flagship stores and distribution in the various fashion capitals of the world, most recently opening one of New York City’s most opulent and glamorous stores.  Thanks to his incredibly elegant designs, which seamlessly blend traditional Indian craftsmanship with contemporary fashion, Mukherjee landed the attention of an ever-developing audience. As Western fashion culture opens its doors to new participants, it’s no surprise that Mukherjee continues to make such a significant impact, having already dressed various celebrities for some of the top fashion events of the year including the Met Gala and Oscars—while remaining fiercely loyal to his Indian roots. Recently, he hosted an event for the Great Elephant Migration in his West Village store, and opened his doors not just to 100 life-sized elephant sculptures but to New York’s fashion, elite including Carolina Herrera, Waris Ahluwalia, Martha Stewart and countless others.  We sat down recently with Mukherjee to discuss not just his design ethos and perspective, but how he continues to share Indian culture and couture through his own lens.  Your work effortlessly blends traditional Indian craftsmanship with contemporary fashion sensibilities. How do you maintain that delicate balance? Being a global traveler, I get to see the best the world has to offer. I understand the talent and skill our local communities possess, and realize my Indian roots make my designs unique. My success comes from an ability to synthesize the DNA of our local artisans with the needs of the global consumer. Before I was a designer, I worked as a stylist. That background of understanding how people dress has helped me create collections that bridge the gap between local craft and international style. Your designs are often a celebration of opulence, yet they carry a softer elegance. What inspires this juxtaposition of grandeur and subtlety in your creations? The center of my sensibility has always been Calcutta, a city that reigns supreme in opulence and cerebral sophistication. I think the city’s intellectual heart is manifested in the multitude of creative individuals from here. As a Bengali, I’ve had access to this great mixing of hedonism with the sophistication of culture. This is how I grew up; it has shaped my consciousness.   You’ve spoken about the importance of nostalgia in your work. Can you share how your personal memories or cultural heritage influence your design process? I have grown up in a beautiful city, Calcutta, that has been the heartbeat of a glorious culture that inspired exceptional poets, philosophers, Nobel Laureates, writers, artists, filmmakers and designers. When your life is surrounded by such richness and history, you carry it into the future. Nostalgia automatically becomes a part of your creative language. Your collections often feature a strong narrative. How important is storytelling in your design philosophy, and how do you weave it into the fabrics, colors,and embellishments of your pieces? I don’t think people buy products anymore. We buy philosophy, culture and values. Through our purchases, the mind is able to travel into a greater human community. It is important for luxury to tell stories about provenance: the communities and history that bring about creation. By using traditional fabrics, heritage embroideries and generational crafts we are telling the story of local artisans and the many lifetimes of dedication embodied in each stitch. Collaborations like your recent partnership with Morgenthal Frederics have expanded your global reach. How do you approach maintaining your Indian identity while working with other brands?  A collaboration is only successful if there is mutual respect between both parties. If each company upholds its traditions and stays true to its identity, the sum will be greater than the individual parts. If Sabyasachi cannot tell an Indian story, then I will not enter into the agreement. With Morgenthal Frederics, the common theme was traditional hand craftsmanship: their frames are developed using the same heritage techniques as Sabyasachi jewelry. We wanted to create something together that was precious, timeless and classic, which is the ethos of the brand. Your brand is not just about clothes, but about an entire lifestyle—whether it’s interiors or jewelry and all your stores, especially the NYC store, exhibit this. How do you continue to build the world of Sabyasachi in a three-dimensional way across the board and making each place feel unique but also part of the larger brand story? I have always maintained that Sabyasachi is not just a fashion brand, but a lifestyle brand. In their attempt to scale, modern companies have lost the very essence that made fashion work: the sensorial and the atmospheric. I combine those experiences in all of my stores, in the stories we tell, and in how we service our clients, even down to our packaging. What people are buying today is not just a product, but a philosophy. Everything we do reflects our commitment to upholding the heritage, sophistication, and quality of India. You’ve cultivated a strong community of artisans who are integral to your creations. How do you view your role in preserving and promoting Indian craftsmanship in the global market? I am unique in the market because I am Indian, and I have always said that India is not a third-world economy but a first-world civilization. We have many age-old techniques and crafts that are superlative. India has so many stories to tell; we have just forgotten how to tell them. We must take a page from the French and market them. In my lifetime, I want to create India’s first global luxury brand by using Indian craftsmanship. I truly believe it’s the best in the world, and you can only preserve that knowledge by creating a strong sense of commerce around it.  How do you stay ahead of trends while still holding onto the timelessness that defines Sabyasachi? Early in my career, I told myself that if I had to choose between financial growth and greater value, I would choose value. The quest for top-line revenue often leads to short-term decisions that spark business but eventually fade away. If you are chasing value, the business becomes timeless. We rarely do runway shows; I don’t follow fashion seasons. We bring out collections when there is something important to say to the market; otherwise, our product remains timeless and classic. By swimming against the tide of greed within the fashion industry, we have built a business of integrity—one that gives value and pride to our consumers. Interview: Sabyasachi Opens in New York City This placeholder is removed when the ad slot is configured. This placeholder is removed when the ad slot is configured. You must be logged in to post a comment. More stories like this one. This placeholder is removed when the ad slot is configured. Keep exploring more content below. 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